Malaga Made Simple

Malaga, the capital of Andalucia in southern Spain, is a compact, delightful, don’t-plan-just-pack city - perfect for an autumn escape. It has just a handful of big-hitter sites in a compact Old City. Landmark bars and cafes serve great tapas. Relaxing beaches are a stroll away, and the sun keeps shining through ‘til winter. No further research required!

A trio of essential sites

Sightseeing around the pedestrianised Old City is straightforward. A Roman amphitheatre is treated as a sunbathing opportunity. Above it looms La Alcazaba, a Moorish fortified palace built 1,000 years ago. It’s beautifully presented with herb-scented gardens and has sea views that stretch towards Morocco. A few minutes’ walk bring you back to the city’s heart, its cathedral (picture above), nicknamed the One-armed Woman because the second tower never got built - the funds were given to help the Americans during their War of Independence.

Pass the port

The super-sparkling Med sets off the chic port area. Its contemporary prom Palmeral de las Sorpresas leads to Muelle Uno, where yachts offload their passengers towards a sweep of al fresco cafes for people-watching over a tinto de verano (a fruity red wine mixture). For peaceful views, climb the stairs to a palm-shaded terrace with seats that gaze across the whole blue-and-white seascape.

Hit the sand

To the east of the port lies the city beach, demerara-coloured La Malagueta. It’s not dazzling, but it’s fun at weekends, when Malagan families flood the chiringuitos – simple beach cafes - for plates of grilled sardines. Some way beyond it lies Playa Pedregalejo, which is chocker with seafood restaurants. Just stroll and pick.

Una or dos museums

If you just visit one museum make it Museo Picasso Malaga, which is dedicated to the city’s own artist Pablo Picasso. View 150-plus pieces of his work in a beautiful 16th century palacio. Time for another one? Take a bus to Museo Automovilistico de Malaga, a private collection of the most glamorous cars ever made and their relationship with fashion. Who can resist a deco at Elizabeth Taylor’s crystal-studded Rolls Royce?

One-stop shopping

Pedestrianised calle del Marqués de Larios, the main shopping street, bustles with buskers and performance artists. Side and parallel streets are good for Spanish shoes, especially espadrilles, and locally made leather jackets, belts and bags.

Coffee break

Since 102 year-old Central Cafe closed down in January 2022 turn to whippersnapper Casa Aranda (Calle Herreria del Rey 1), which is a mere 90 years old. Its churros and hot chocolate can’t be beaten. Caffeine addicts note: Malagan coffee comes milky - a custom that started in the Spanish Civil War when coffee prices were high.

To market

The impeccably-styled market stalls of 19th-century Mercado Atarazanas are a must, particularly for salted almonds, dried grapefruit and tiny figs to snack on. The area around it is good lunch territory.

Essential eating

Sure, you might want to Google voguish restaurants. But on arrival you only need two words: El Pimpi. This ever-popular bodega has a terrace in front of the amphitheatre and is fab for coffee, drinks or a super-fresh plate of pescaíto frito (fried fish). For tapas bars, just take a crawl through Old City’s alleyways - Tapeo de Cervantes (Calle Carcér 8) is reliable if you’re stuck.

The oldest bar in town…

…is Antigua Casa de Guardia (Alameda Principal 18) - a favourite of Picasso and still hugely popular. The perfect place for a glass of Andalucian moscotel, Malaga’s sweet white wine.

For tourist information , see andalucia.org. Image at top of page: postcardtrip from Pixabay