A teenager’s cycling holiday through 1950s Norway
In 1958, the year when Elvis Presley’s Jailhouse Rock climbed the charts and Prime Minister Harold Macmillan showed Brits that they ‘had never had it so good’, 17-year-old Jim Larney travelled to Scandinavia with Hertfordshire’s Eagle Road Club - a cycling club that celebrates its centenary this year. Early one June evening, he met with six other club members at Edmonton, North London to begin the trip by cycling all the way to Newcastle’s ferry port - a distance of 275 miles. Jim was the youngster of the all-male group, and he remembers he was riding a Ron Blackwell eight-gear lightweight road bike that he bought from a shop on Hackney Road. The cyclists headed around the North Circular to the A1, then simply peddled north, travelling all through the night and into the following day, The journey was made more dramatic by witnessing a military plane crash en route - something he didn’t mention to his parents in his postcard home! From Newcastle they sailed for several days by ferry to the Norwegian city of Bergen. Disembarking on Sunday June 15, Jim and his group began their holiday in Western Norway’s national parks, sleeping in hostels at night and active all day, tackling gruelling mountain passes, skimming fjords and clambering up mountains - all in shorts and anoraks. As the most junior club member, Jim wasn’t concerned with the routes and schedules: he simply followed the group leaders and enjoyed Scandinavia’s most stunning scenery in temperatures that climbed gradually climbed from 11C to 20C, sending and collecting the postcards shown below on the way.
15.6.58. “Dear Mum and Dad, The ride up to Newcastle was very good, sunny all way. The boat is the Leda which we are on. It’s a very modern ship with showers and all the latest equipment. The food is quite good. We are just approaching the Norwegian coast. Cheerio, Jim”
“We cycled between walls of snow”
“20.6.58. Dear Mum and Dad, The weather has been quite good with only 1 afternoon of rain. Yesterday we climbed the highest pass in Norway [Sognefjellsvegen, above, right and below right] which is 5,000 feet high. The pass is opened only for 3 months of the year. The road was on either side walls of snow 25 feet high. On the way down the other side we passed a lake covered with ice! Cheerio, Jim”
“On Saturday we cycled up a mountain pass then climbed on foot to the top of Dalsnibba, a 4,500ft mountain”
“Tuesday. Dear Mum and Dad, Weather has now turned very warm with 3 days of very hot sun. On Saturday we went up a mountain pass to some very deep snow, and in the afternoon climbed on foot to the top of Dalsnibba [above and right], a 4,500 foot mountain. That evening we stopped at Geiranger [above right], which is on the edge of a fjord. The next day was spent riding to see a glacier. Will be home Sunday tea time. Cheerio, Jim”
Postcard locations and credits
1 Bergen Line boat. Printed in Norway by F Beyer Bergen. 2 Fossen Bratte waterfall, Ruten Bergen-Norheimsund. Foto: Alfr. Vikor. 3 Jotunheimen. Juvasshytta mot Galhopiggen. Credit: Enerett: Normanns Kunstforiag A.s - Os… (indecipherable). 4 Sognefjellsvegen. Mot Smorstabbreen. Credit: Enerett: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo.5 Hardanger - Tokagjelet. Credit: Enerett: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 6 Fortun i Sogn. Sognefjellvegen. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 7 Vegen Geiranger-Djupvasshytta-Dalsnibba. Credit: Enerett: Peter Merok. 8 Dalsnibba - 1500 moh. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 9 Norge Urasvingene i Geiranger. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 10 Fyksesund Bridge. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 11 Mabodalen - ruten Eidfjord - Fossli - Haugastol. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 12 Parti fra ruten: Voss Vik. Credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo. 13 Norge. Veien Grotli - Djupvatn. credit: Normanns Kunstforlag A.s - Oslo.