Europe’s covered food markets:
delicious by design
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Mercado Central, Valencia, Spain
Spain’s third city is a life-affirming, liveable place, and the neighbourhood around the Mercado Central feels like the heart of it all. It’s a 1920s modernist building with stained glass that lends a cathedral-like atmosphere, although there’s nothing reverend about the clamour that rises from its 1,200 stalls. This is an ‘anytime’ place for a shot of Valencian orange juice, paella ingredients, a hearty snack of blanco y negro (white and black sausage sandwich with broad beans) - whatever you need or fancy. And for tapas with a buzz, book a counter seat at its Central Bar, run by two-Michelin-starred chef Ricard Camerena.
Mon-Sat 7am-3pm, visitvalencia.com
Photo: Rubén M. i Santos, Pixabay
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Torvehallerne, Copenhagen, Denmark
The Danish capital’s food scene is all about Innovative, fresh, seasonal food, which is why this contemporary market spread across two glass buildings works so well. It’s packed with 60-plus attention-grabbing stalls - you’re tempted by a bag of dried rhubarb one minute and a Korean honey pancake the next. First purchase for traditionalists, however, will always be the beautifully created Danish smørrebrød piled with herring, egg, capers and dill. To people watch, slip into a seat at Le Petit champagne & wine bar, where Piemontese wine comes with a plate of Danish charcuterie and a friendly atmosphere.
Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, hallernes.dk/en/
Photo: Smorrebrod by Adrian Scottow, Flickr
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Les Halles de Dijon, Burgundy, France
Although it’s often claimed to be the work of Gustave Eiffel, who designed the Effel Tower, Les Halles’ origins are not clearcut. It seems the beautiful ironwork and glass structure was inspired by a proposal from the Eiffel company, but created by another designer. Nevertheless, it’s a beautiful space with graceful arches embellished with animal and fish motifs. Since you’re in the capital of Burgundy, wine flows freely. After a glass or two of Pinot Noir, it’s time to sample regional specialities like époisse, a soft cheese ripened in brandy, and jambon persille, a ham and pork terrine covered in parsley gelatine, before you weave back out on to the cobbled streets..
Tues, Thurs-Sat 7am-1pm, en.destinationdijon.com
Photo: Hans Bastmeijer, Flickr
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Mercato Orientale Genova, Italy
An early-evening Genovese spritz, concocted from local vermouth, basil and soda, is the perfect way to admire the MOG’s architecture. It started life in the late 17th century (when the northwestern port city was an independent republic) as the cloister of a monastery, but is now entirely vivacious. Upstairs are food stalls - think squid burgers, stuffed anchovies and Michelin-level paninis - which jostle around a central bar. Downstairs is a traditional, super-verdant market where you can pick up Ligurian olive oil and pansoti (Genova’s half-moon-shaped ravioli). Intriguingly, the local tourist board’s website describes the traders as ‘somewhat uncouth but frank’, but in our experience they’re actually very helpful and patient!
Mon 10am-3pm; Tues-Thurs 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 10am-12am, visitgenoa.it.
Photo: visitgenoa.it
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The English Market, Cork, Ireland
Named after the English corporation who opened it in 1788, this iconic Cork city market is now global enough to sell poke and sushi. But it’s the produce from southern Ireland’s lush pastures and waterways that’s so special. Look for whisky & honey dry cure bacon from Tom Bradley, limited-edition cheeses from Toonsbridge Dairy and salmon from Pat O’Connell, who, on Queen Elizabeth II’s first Irish visit in 2011, entertained her so much with a giant monkfish head that he received a dinner invitation to Buckingham Palace. A convivial lunch at the Gatehouse Cafe upstairs is a must.
Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, englishmarket.ie.
Photo: Juan Seguí Moreno, Flickr
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Borough Market, London, UK
Borough Market always feels a little gritty - you’ll hear the rumble of trains heading into London Bridge station as you queue for Brindisa’s famous chorizo roll and a Monmouth coffee. Its architecture and atmosphere are decidedly Victorian, although the history of trading at its sprawling site stretches back 1,000 years. Recently, it has fought off threats of closure to keep its place in the 21st-century English capital, and is much treasured by Londoners. Office workers love to picnic on its produce in the grounds of nearby Southwark Cathedral. Flavours are global, but you can shop the best of the UK here, buying Kent cob nuts, Caerphilly cheese and Isle of Wight tomatoes.
Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 8am-5pm; Sun 10-3pm (visit Wed-Sat for the most stalls), boroughmarket.org.uk
Photo: Herry Lawford, Flickr